Showing posts with label textile production. Show all posts
Showing posts with label textile production. Show all posts

Thursday, 21 February 2013

Kente - The Bonwire Story

So it has been some time since I have posted a substantial post but with preparations to go to Ghana time has been limited...alas, I am in Ghana and so the adventures have begun!  In my first post from this beautiful country, I have had the opportunity to explore the creation of Kente.  I have been using Kente in my designs since the beginning of mefie.co.uk and there has definitely been a great response to the print.  The intention while I are here is to expand its use re-purposing it in new and exciting ways.  Initially, I had gone to the hub of the Ghanaian retail sector and carefully selected fabrics from the markets but on this trip I wanted to explore where this great traditional weave originates.  It would be a shame not to really explore kente and understand not only where it comes from but what it means.

Kente cloth originated in the Ashanti kingdom and was traditionally worn by the kings.  Even today there are special weaves which are only worn by royalty.  Over time its use has become more widespread although it is still traditionally worn and used for special occasions.  The cloth is woven in strips and each of the woven patterns has a meaning.  As one of the weavers explained yesterday ' they don't just weave for beauty but to communicate a meaning.' Hence, each of the cloths is special and unique in its own right.

So yesterday, I had the opportunity to travel to the main area in the Ashanti region where Kente cloth is produced, Bonwire. The town is only about 40 minutes outside of Kumasi and upon my approach I was surprised by how small and remote the township is.  As many of you may know, Kente is one of, if not THE most famous woven African cloth so I had imagined a large building to house all of the kente weavers.  I can remember watching The Cosby Show in the '80s and seeing Cliff and Claire in various Kente throws so my imagination ran wild.  Instead as we left Kumasi, we were met with two inconspicuous signs which directed us to a small building behind some houses where kente is made. 

After greeting the weavers outside of the building, I entered into a room where I was met with a variety of beautiful weaves as well as various weaving benches.  The craft is dominated by men who create the beautiful patterns.  One weaver explained that although newer designs have been created, many have also been passed down through generations over time.  The price for the kente varies depending on the different type of cloth created (ie. there are single, double and triple weaves), and the intricacy of the designs. I was really surprised to find out that a weave can take anywhere from 6 weeks to 6 months to complete depending on the difficulty.

I also had the opportunity to try to weave and I have to say that if I were to weave for a day I would not have to hit the gym for a while as the process of pulling on the strings with your feet in order to change the direction of the weave while passing the spools of thread through the apparatus is a workout.  After about 5 minutes of weaving my thighs began to feel the burn...and as an avid spinner and Insanity convert I was surprised by the physical labour involved. 

Overall, my trip to Bonwire was an eye-opening experience.  It was great to see how this beautiful cloth has come into existence but sad to know that despite the great popularity and fame of the cloth this area still remains quite underdeveloped.  I will be going back to Bonwire over the next few weeks and hope to have the opportunity to develop a longer terms relationship with the weavers in the area.

I hope you enjoy the journey

xx mefieuk






























Thursday, 24 January 2013

Social Enterprise ...AND Goodbye to TO

As some of you may know, the aim of mefie.co.uk is to be a social enterprise investing in both the local textile trade as well as young people in Ghana.  As we grow the intention is to look at scaling our organisation both in Ghana and to expand to other African nations with the vision that our goods will be sold both on the continent and around the world!

For my final post while in Canada, I had a chance to speak to Denise Brennan who has worked for various NGOs worldwide and who currently works in Social Innovation at the Ontario Centres of Excellence. Her remit is to build partnerships between not-for profits, social enterprises and private companies, hence, she has great insight into the operations of all three types of business.  I thought that this was the perfect opportunity to talk about the idea of a social enterprise, to provide a bit more depth as to what we at mefie.co.uk are trying to accomplish and to highlight some of the great enterprises that have come before!

Over the past few months as I have begun the journey of creating my business, one main goal that I have always kept in the fore is my desire to affect change in a positive way and to use the business to further drive/develop African economies...I want to start in Ghana due to my links to the country and then look to expand.  There are various types of businesses that can be created in order to aid in growth in Ghana (or any other country).  Beyond the traditional for-profit models, there are:

 - Social Purpose Businesses - which are for-profit businesses that have a social mission;
 - Non-profit Organisations - where the intention and mission is to help a specific cause without a need to create profit or;
 - Social Enterprise - which has a social mission which is central to the business and works to a triple bottom line driving growth in people, profit and the environment 

(Below is a link to the CSEF which supports social entrepreneurs in Canada.  I think it is a great resource for my Canadian peeps)! http://www.csef.ca/what_is_a_social_entrepreneur.php)

Although all three have their merits, for me the only choice was to begin a social enterprise, which has a central focus to impact change.  Overall, the concept of a social enterprise is relatively new yet as the idea has gained momentum, there are many outstanding examples both in Fashion and Textiles and in other walks of life that are trailblazers in this area.  

Social Entrepreneurs, like myself have the same desire to start a business but also want to be a force for positive social change.  Personally, I remember when I read the '7 Habits of Highly Successful People;'  there is a  chapter in the book where readers are asked to write about how we would want to be remembered when we die.  The follow on to that, is an exercise where readers are supposed to list whether the activities in our life align to the legacy that we want to create.  For me, personally...having worked in Pharmaceuticals for a number of years...there was a serious disconnect...so in starting this business I feel that the connection between my desire to affect change in a positive way is achieved.  For me, running a for-profit business but using it in a way that would leave a lasting legacy is important.

Based on my discussions with Denise, and my own personal experience, there are a  few common issues which arise for social entrepreneurs:
 - how do you make money from it;
 - how do you get investment;
 - how do you register the business and;
 - what resources are available to support this type of business?

As a business, like any other, social enterprises need to implement a sound business model in order to create growth.  Like any other, the key is to have a good idea and to drive growth and adoption in the same way that a normal business would do.  The main differences however are operational ie. the investment will not just go into the pocket of the owner/shareholder but also be re-invested in the environment and people and the social impact will remain at the forefront of the business.

Social Enterprises are a newer concept and as such obtaining investment can be tricky.  However, there are different options available which can aid in gaining the funding needed to make the venture a success.  There are Social Impact Investors whose aim is to invest with a conscience with the knowledge that the business will not only look to drive profit.  As well there are a number of crowd-funding sites where you can pitch a business idea to the masses (generally via the Internet) and investors can read your business plan, mission and vision in order to decide whether they believe in your business and whether they would like to invest in the concept.  Both of the above options provide new means of growth and investment which allow a social enterprise not to be constrained by the traditional confines of just profit.

As this new(ish) form of enterprise continues to grow it will be interesting to see how the business environment begins to shift and the impact that social enterprise has on a grander scale.  Additionally, with the advent of the internet, there is greater social awareness and as a result people  have begun to question what their legacy is and what they can do to affect change.  Based on Denises' experience thus far, many young people are very engaged and there are new organisations etc geared towards supporting young social entrepreneurs.  Hence these are exciting times...hopefully for the next generation, the idea of social entrepreneurship will be the norm and all companies will feel that they need to contribute to the wider society of which they are a part.

As a final hurrah - here are two social ventures started in Canada:  - 
 - St Johns Bakery - which helps marginalised individuals get off of welfare and to contribute to society by providing employment
 - My Voice Inc - has developed a smart phone application with words available for those with communication issues ie. after a stroke, autism etc.

...and across the African continent here are a few more ventures that I wanted to celebrate!

 - The Edun Project - started and run by Bono and his wife -- its mission is to bring about change through a positive trading relationship with Africa..currently about 40% of their goods are produced in Africa but the plan is to increase the uptake by 10% per year...based on their talk at the International Herald Tribune Conference (IHT) focused on growth and development in Africa, in November 2012, they have also secured funding from the Louis Vuitton Group
 - www.Maiyet.com - which is a fashion line/social enterprise which works in developing countries to manufacture and create their line.  The intention is to increase peace around the world through growth and investment 
 - www.choolips.co.uk - which is a fashion brand in the UK which works with artisans and seamstresses in Ghana, India and Kenya in order to further develop the trade and produce apparel


I look forward to continuing the conversation and look forward to greater development as a social entrepreneur!

...and goodbye TO--it has been fun...love ya lots
xx mefie uk